Lomo saltado
Lomo Saltado: Fusion and Flavor in Peruvian Cuisine
Lomo saltado is one of the most beloved dishes in Peruvian cuisine, known for its bold flavor and mixed heritage. Its origin traces back to the fusion of Peruvian and Chinese cuisine, born from the cultural encounter between Peruvians and Cantonese migrants who, by combining ingredients and cooking techniques, created a unique dish: lomo saltado.
This fusion took place in the late 19th century, when the first Chinese immigrants—mainly Cantonese—arrived in Peru. They introduced new cooking methods such as stir-frying in a wok, a traditional Chinese technique that cooks food at high temperatures with intense heat. In its early days, the dish was prepared with various types of meat, as beef was expensive. Over time, beef became more accessible due to its nutritional value, allowing it to become a staple of the dish.
In 1849, the first Chinese migrants arrived in Peru, bringing ingredients, techniques, and tools like the wok. Chinese restaurants in the country began to popularize dishes such as "chaufa" (fried rice) and stir-fries. As beef became more available, fusions like "lomo a la chorrillana" and “lomo de vaca” emerged, blending Chinese and Peruvian elements. From this context, lomo saltado was born and eventually became a fixture on the menus of chifas (Chinese-Peruvian restaurants).
Lomo saltado is prepared with beef, onions, tomatoes, French fries, and sillao (soy sauce). Many of these ingredients have a long history in Peru: tomatoes and potatoes, for example, have been used since pre-Inca times and are essential in the Andean diet. Onions, introduced by the Spanish, have become a staple in salads and stews.
According to renowned chef Gastón Acurio, lomo saltado is an emblematic dish of Peruvian cuisine that reflects diverse cultural influences: “It has Inca, Spanish, and especially Chinese influence. It uses the Asian technique of stir-frying in a pan, giving rise to what we now know as lomo saltado, which in the 1940s was served with potatoes on the side. Five decades later, the fries were incorporated into a single presentation,” he said in an interview with the Andina news agency.
Originally known as “lomo revuelto” or “lomo con todo,” the dish took on its definitive identity when French fries were added, solidifying its mestizo and distinctly Peruvian character.
Today, lomo saltado is not only a delicious blend of flavors, but also a living symbol of the cultural mixing that defines Peru. It’s a dish that transcends generations and borders, enjoyed both in home kitchens and in the country’s finest restaurants. Preparing and sharing it is a way to celebrate Peru’s rich cultural heritage and the value of its diverse roots.
RECIPE
(Agustín Butrón – Institute of High Cuisine and Gastronomy, Universidad San Martín de Porres. Serves 3)
Ingredients
500 grams of tenderloin (beef)
1 medium red onion, thick julienne cut
2 peeled tomatoes, thick julienne cut
½ kilo of yellow potatoes, thick julienne cut for frying
1 yellow chili (ají amarillo), finely julienned
½ rocoto (hot pepper), finely julienned, seeds removed
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped (brunoise)
3 tablespoons soy sauce (sillao)
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 sprig of cilantro, finely chopped (brunoise)
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Preparation
Cut the beef into thick julienne strips. Season with salt, pepper, and garlic. Let it rest for a few minutes to absorb the flavors.
Cut the potatoes and fry them in hot oil. Slice the onion and tomatoes into long julienne strips. Set aside.
Heat oil in a pan or wok over high heat for a few minutes. Add the beef and sear it for a few minutes. Once seared, stir-fry it to give it a smoky flavor (a characteristic flame that defines the dish). Then add the onion, chili, and tomato. Stir constantly, then add vinegar, soy sauce, and cilantro. Remove from heat.
Serve the fries, white rice, and beef separately on the same plate. The fries should be crispy.
SOURCES
COCINA PERUANA: Historia, Cultura y Sabores, by Sara Beatriz Guardia – USMP
MARTIN ACOSTA GONZALES (@martiacosta)