Los picarones
Pre-Hispanic Origin and Evolution During the Viceroyalty
This delicious dessert, which wins over everyone who tries it, is one of the most beloved by both Peruvians and foreigners. Its origin dates back to pre-Hispanic times, when Andean cultures prepared a similar dish using sweet potato and squash—fundamental ingredients in the Incan diet.
During the Viceroyalty, the recipe was transformed with the introduction of European ingredients such as wheat flour and sugar. This is how the picarón was born as we know it today, with its characteristic ring shape and texture that is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside.
Comparison and Cultural Significance
Due to their circular shape with a hole in the middle, picarones are often compared to doughnuts, although their light texture is more similar to fritters. They are considered the flagship dessert of Peruvian pastry and are deeply tied to the cultural identity of Lima.
Afro-Peruvian Tradition and Spread
Picarones were popularized and perfected by Afro-Peruvian cooks and the nuns of the Santa Clara convent, who played a key role in establishing the recipe. The tradition has remained alive over time, passed down from generation to generation as part of Lima’s cultural legacy.
Consumption in October and Picarón Day
They are especially popular in October, the month of the Señor de los Milagros (Lord of Miracles), when thousands of devotees walk through the historic center of Lima and enjoy this treat accompanied by miel de chancaca (cane syrup). In addition, October 26th is celebrated as Picarón Day—a date dedicated to honoring its flavor and history.
Miel de Chancaca: The Final Touch
The syrup that accompanies picarones is made from chancaca (unrefined cane sugar), cinnamon, and cloves. This preparation adds a warm sweetness and an unmistakable aroma, an essential part of the experience.
Recognition and Present-Day Presence
In 2011, the Ministry of Culture of Peru recognized picarones as part of the Cultural Heritage of the Nation. Today, they can be found at fairs, markets, restaurants, and street food carts. Always freshly fried and served generously, picarones are more than a dessert—they are a living expression of Peru's culinary memory.
RECIPE
200 g of squash (zapallo)
200 g of sweet potato
4 cups of wheat flour
1 cinnamon stick
3 tbsp of fresh yeast
A pinch of salt
2 tbsp of sugar
Oil for frying
Water
FOR THE SYRUP
50 g of papelón, panela, or chancaca
1 cinnamon stick
1 tbsp of orange or lemon zest
3 cloves
1 cup of water
2 fig leaves
1 tsp of anise seeds
Preparation
Wash the sweet potato and squash. Then cut them into cubes and boil in a pot with enough water and the cinnamon stick.
Once the vegetables are soft, remove them and let them cool. When cool, place them in a large bowl and mash them into a purée. Set aside the water they were boiled in.
When the water is lukewarm, take two cups of it and pour into a bowl. Add the yeast and sugar. Mix and let sit for about 10 minutes until it activates.
After this time, add the yeast mixture to the sweet potato and squash purée. Mix vigorously to fully integrate everything.
Now, add half of the wheat flour, the pinch of salt, and start mixing well. Use a spatula or your hands. The dough will be a bit sticky.
Then, add the remaining flour and knead again until the texture is soft and uniform. If more flour or water is needed, you can adjust. The goal is to have a manageable dough.
Form the dough into a ball, place it in a bowl, cover with a damp cloth, and let it rest for about 2 hours so it can rise.
After it has risen, knead the dough just a little.
Heat a pan with enough oil.
Fill a bowl with water. This will help moisten your hands before shaping the picarones.
Once the oil is hot, moisten your hands, take a bit of the dough, shape it into a cylinder (it doesn’t need to be perfect), and join the ends to form a ring or donut shape—the classic look of a picarón. Do the same with the rest of the dough.
Fry the picarones until golden and cooked through.
PREPARATION OF THE CHANCACA SYRUP
Pour two cups of water into a pot and add the papelón, panela, or chancaca. Stir until it dissolves.
Next, add the lemon or orange zest, cloves, cinnamon stick, anise, and fig leaves. Mix and let it cook on high heat for about 15 minutes.
Stir occasionally to prevent it from sticking. After that time, turn off the heat. The mixture should have the consistency of a syrup or honey. Strain and let cool.
To serve your picarones, place them in a bowl and pour the miel de chancaca on top until they’re fully coated.