Aji de gallina
How ají de gallina was born
Peruvian cuisine has skillfully adapted European flavors using local ingredients. A clear example of this fusion is Ají de Gallina, a highly requested dish at lunchtime. Its origins date back to colonial times, when the Spanish brought to Peru a sweet preparation known as "Menjar Blanc" or "Manjar Blanco", common in 14th-century Catalonia. This dish consisted of pieces of boiled hen, seasoned with sugar, walnuts, almonds, and thickened with rice and flour.
When this recipe arrived in Peru in the 16th century, it was transformed by local creativity. Ingredients like sugar and almonds were replaced with Andean products, and thus Ají de Gallina, as we know it today, was born. Yellow chili peppers (ají amarillo), pecans, and hen breast began to be used (though nowadays chicken is also commonly used). This combination resulted in a savory, creamy, and flavorful dish.
Ají amarillo, an essential ingredient in this recipe, has been used by ancient Peruvians since pre-Hispanic times—not only for its flavor, but also for its medicinal and ritual properties. According to MIDAGRI (Ministry of Agrarian Development and Irrigation of Peru), there are more than 350 varieties of chili peppers in Peru. Ají de Gallina mainly uses yellow chili, although some versions incorporate up to three different types of chili peppers. Bell peppers may also be added to give a special touch.
Ají de Gallina is a perfect example of how Peruvian cuisine has reinterpreted European heritage, giving it a unique character with local ingredients and traditional techniques. It's a dish that represents not just flavor, but also history and culture.
The evolution of ají de gallina
Ají de Gallina has changed over time. Today, milk and onions are part of its preparation, and it's served with boiled eggs and potatoes. This dish has become one of the favorites among Peruvians, according to Rodolfo Tafur Zevallos, a researcher and culinary instructor.
Tafur recounts in his article "Historia del Ají de Gallina" that:
“The guards of the Lima Police, while inspecting various inns and restaurants in the city, reported a dish that was enjoyed by diners with delight. It consisted of shredded hen meat with a sauté of onions, garlic, chili peppers, and small pieces of bread, served with potatoes.”
Over time, new ingredients have been incorporated to enhance its flavor. Many Peruvian families now choose to prepare this dish with chicken, since its meat is more tender and cooks faster than hen.
RECIPE (By Chef Gastón Acurio)
Ingredients:
1 hen breast
1 bay leaf
1 French bread roll
2 cups of milk
1/4 cup oil
1 chopped onion
4 minced garlic cloves
1/2 cup yellow chili pepper paste (ají amarillo)
2 cups vegetable mix (carrot, celery, leek)
1/4 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon turmeric (palillo)
1/4 cup toasted and chopped pecans
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
4 boiled yellow potatoes
4 black olives
2 boiled eggs
Salt and pepper to taste
Preparation:
In a pot, boil the 2 cups of vegetable mix with the hen breast, bay leaf, and a pinch of salt. Once the chicken is cooked, set it aside to cool, then shred it.
Cut the bread, soak it in milk, and blend it until smooth.
In a pot, sauté the oil, onion, garlic, yellow chili paste, cumin, and turmeric. Add a few tablespoons of the chicken broth used earlier. Stir until the mixture is well combined.
Add the blended milk mixture, stir, and let it cook over low heat. Then, add the shredded hen, pecans, and Parmesan cheese, and mix well.
After a few minutes, once the mixture has reached a creamy consistency, turn off the heat and serve with slices of boiled potato.
SOURCES
COCINA PERUANA, Historia, Cultura y Sabores AUTOR: Sara Beatriz Guardia USMP
EL COMERCIO