Ocopa arequipeña: emblematic starter of the white city
Ocopa arequipeña: tradition, flavor, and history
One of the most beloved dishes by Peruvians is Ocopa arequipeña, a delicious starter that often accompanies other main dishes. In Peruvian culinary tradition, it's common to begin meals with a light starter before moving on to the main course, and ocopa plays that role with its unmistakable flavor and a history deeply rooted in the identity of the south of the country.
An ancestral origin
The history of ocopa dates back to the time of the Inca Empire, when the chasquis—messengers in charge of carrying news across the Tahuantinsuyo—carried a bag called ocopa. In it, they stored dried chilies, ground peanuts, and Andean herbs that helped them regain strength during their long journeys. These ingredients were ground in a batán, an ancestral kitchen stone still used in many regions of Peru.
Colonial influence and the evolution of flavor
With the arrival of the Spanish, the original ocopa recipe began to transform. New ingredients such as milk, cheese, and eventually soaked biscuits or bread were incorporated, giving the sauce a creamier texture and a more complex flavor. This culinary fusion process reflects the richness of Peruvian gastronomy, constantly influenced by various cultures over time.
What gives it its green color?
The characteristic green color of Ocopa arequipeña primarily comes from huacatay, an aromatic herb native to the Peruvian Andes. This plant not only gives the sauce its distinctive green hue but also contributes to the deep herbal flavor that defines it. In addition to huacatay, the use of green chili and, in some cases, cilantro enhances both the color and freshness of the dish. It is this combination of local ingredients that makes ocopa an authentic expression of the Andean landscape and its biodiversity.
Traditional places in Arequipa to try ocopa
For those visiting Arequipa or wishing to enjoy authentic Ocopa arequipeña, picanterías are the ideal place to savor this dish with the traditional recipe. Among the most recognized are Picantería La Capitana, Characato, El Cántaro, as well as the iconic restaurants Sol de Mayo and Nueva Palomino, which are landmarks of Arequipa's gastronomy and offer a complete experience with typical dishes prepared with fresh ingredients and ancestral techniques. Additionally, at traditional markets such as Mercado San Camilo, it is possible to find homemade ocopa that preserves the authentic flavor and freshness that characterize this sauce.
Ocopa today
Today, Ocopa arequipeña is traditionally served over boiled papa huayro, accompanied by hard-boiled eggs, black olives, and occasionally fresh lettuce leaves or fresh cheese, which complement its flavor and texture. While there are more modern versions adapted to different tastes, in Arequipa's picanterías—those emblematic traditional restaurants where ancestral recipes are kept alive and typical, spicy dishes are enjoyed—the ocopa is still prepared the old way, carefully grinding the ingredients in the batán and using huacatay, the indispensable aromatic herb that gives it that unmistakable flavor.
Beyond its role as a starter, ocopa is also used as a side dish for various plates, adding an authentic Arequipa touch that enhances the richness and variety of Peruvian gastronomy. Its presence on the table is a constant reminder of cultural mestizaje and the deep connection between indigenous roots and colonial influences, which together have shaped the culinary identity of Peru.
Enjoying an ocopa is not just about savoring a delicious dish, but also experiencing a tradition passed down from generation to generation, preserving the spirit and history of a region that takes pride in its gastronomic heritage. That is why each bite invites you to discover a bit more of the soul of Arequipa and its people, who, with dedication and love, keep this culinary gem alive.
RECIPE
Ingredients:
Cooked papa huayro
Hard-boiled egg (to taste)
1 medium red onion
1/2 cup evaporated milk
100 grams fresh cheese or paria cheese
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 yellow chili peppers (without seeds and veins)
2 garlic cloves, chopped
2 handfuls of huacatay leaves
1 handful of roasted peanuts
1 handful of animal-shaped or vanilla biscuits
Salt to taste
Olives to taste
Preparation:
In a pan, add olive oil and then fry the yellow chili pepper over high heat until it turns golden. Next, add the red onion cut into wedges, chopped garlic, and huacatay leaves to combine with the fried ingredients.
Add the roasted peanuts with the animal-shaped or vanilla biscuits and fry it all together until the vegetables are soft. Set aside and let cool until it’s lukewarm or cold.
Place everything in the blender and add 1/2 cup evaporated milk, along with the 100 grams of fresh cheese or paria cheese. Blend according to your desired speed. Add more milk if necessary or more cheese to reach the desired texture.
Finally, add salt to taste and huacatay (if needed). Once done, check if the blend is well-made to achieve a creamy texture. On a plate, place the amount of papa huayro you want to consume, along with olives and hard-boiled egg.
SOURCES
REVISTA SOMMELIER
INFOBAE